To dine at Orfali Bros in Dubai is to discover poetry for the first time after a lifetime of prose. So even though I don’t usually write about food or restaurants, I’ll make an exception this time. Orfali Bros — one of S. Pellegrino’s 50 best restaurants in the world and the recipient of a Michelin star — is just that good.
The food itself is otherworldly and sublime, which is what you’d expect, maybe, if you walk in Michelin-star circles. What you wouldn’t expect is the pervasive artistry that underpins the experience. The ambiance is casual but in no way haphazard: the waitstaff, for example, wear sneakers, but they all wear the same sneakers. (I didn’t notice. My dining partner did.) They are friendly but not imposing. When they describe the food (which — did I mention? — is amazing!) and when they bring the food (I mean, really amazing!) the waiters explain the culinary details with just enough fascinating information to inspire awe and enhance the meal.
The meal itself is a colorful kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. Like some modern art, each dish leaves the initial impression of having been thrown together somewhat at random, and on closer inspection seems to offer compelling evidence for divine inspiration. How is it possible, one asks between bites, that ordinary ingredients come together in such an extraordinary way?
But they do. Orfali Bros is like having beloved family who happen to be the best chefs you’ll ever meet.
I can’t wait to return.
